Have you ever thought about becoming a model? Have your
friends and family ever suggested you should model? Have you
thought that modeling would be an interesting way to earn a
living or increase your income? This short intro to modeling
isn't a step by step handbook to a successful career but it will
help you decide if working as a model is right for you, some
suggestions to get started and some scams were you should be
aware.
When one thinks of a model, often they picture a stunningly
tall woman marching down the runway with confidence and
attitude, in the spotlight, camera strobes popping by the
hundreds, sporting the latest creations from some famous fashion
designer who's name can't be pronounced without a
seductive accent. Perhaps you
visualize a photo shoot in some exotic location with art
directors, photo stylists, hair stylists, makeup artists,
photographers and assistants toiling over glamorous people
that earn thousands of dollars per day having fun in the sun
being photographed for the next cover of Vogue, Elle, Sports
Illustrated Swimsuit Addition or Glamour.
Guess what? It's out there. These jobs exist. People
are booked everyday as models and talents, some even swept away to
the productions just described. Obviously
these working pros are at the top of their game; professionals
booked out of New York, Chicago, Los Angeles, Atlanta, Miami,
London, Milan, or Paris by agencies like Q-Management,
Wilhelmina Models and Elite Model Management. These models have
learned the industry, endured the frustration and
work very hard. Basically these are the pros willing to do the things that most who fail were unwilling to do.
Right this minute you have at least two,
perhaps three things in common with every successful model
getting all that fame and fortune:
- They decided to explore the possibilities of becoming a
professional model.
- They made the decision to become a model
- They started from the very same spot you are on right
now!
Notice I didn't say supermodel. There are thousands of men,
women, and children actively earning a great living in print,
film and video without a New York supermodel status!
When determining if modeling is a good career choice, you
must determine your best fit. You must be realistic.
Determine your strengths and weaknesses as to not waste your valuable
time and career investment dollars targeting the wrong area of the
industry. Aspiring models should understand there are different
areas of the business that hire a particular style of model.
In order to be successful you must match yourself to the
appropriate niche. For example, a drop dead gorgeous
female, 36-24-36,with immaculate, tanned, olive skin, beautifully
flowing dark hair, eyes that can stop a bus and a 5'5" stature
will not have a prayer becoming the next Uma Thurma.
Runway models like Thurma are required to be 6'0" or better.
Occasionally, models will find runway work at a national event
measuring in at 5'11" but any shorter would only be wasting
time.
The primary modeling niches have requirements, height and
otherwise. You shouldn't waste time and investment dollars pursuing
areas of modeling where you do not meet the requirements. The
following list will give you an idea where you might fit.
- Runway, National Fashion Print Advertising,
International Fashion
- Entry level age limit - 17 years old. Because this
area of modeling has relatively short window of
opportunity, agencies booking on the world or national
stage will not invest the money required to groom new
talent on those starting as an
adult.
- Height Minimum - 6'
- Fashion Print Advertising - European and US
- Editorial, Designer's clothing - Height minimum -
5'8''
- Editorial models are models seen in commercial print
in lifestyle situations. These models are used in books,
magazine articles and feature stories, print advertising
and product packaging.
- Designers will contract models to showcase their
fashions to wholesalers. These shows are different than
the runway shows seen on TV.
- Commercial Print Advertising - Asian Market
- Commercial Print Advertising - Department stores,
hair and beauty products
- Specialties - Hands, Legs, Feet, Fit Models, Swimwear
and Lingerie
- Height minimum - 5-2 for these specialties
- Hands, Leg, and Feet - Models are used model
jewelry, shoes, socks, nylons, fingernail polish, razor blades,
etc.
- Fit Models - Designers require models to work with
them during various stages of their fashion creation.
- Product Models, Shows, and Television
- Height minimum - 5'
- Product models are used in print advertising as well
as television and other shows.
- Models working on TV or in shows have acting
abilities in addition to appealing looks or a likeable
character These people are generally referred to as Talents.
My start in this business was booking pro talent in
Southern California.
As you can see there are several categories of models and
talents. Don't waste time and money attempting to enter a
category where you do not meet the minimum height requirements.
Height is critical and non negotiable.
Now that you are a professional model it would be nice to
start generating some money from your chosen profession. Other
professional models use modeling agencies to find work and get
hands on training to advance their craft. This is where new pros
must be careful. There are quote unquote agencies out there that
charge new models for seminars, model training, portfolios while
providing very little, if any work at all.
I can't tell you the number of times I've heard horror
stories from disgruntled hopefuls who were ripped off by so
called agents, talent scouts, modeling agencies, or producers.
Click here to see some for yourself then hurry back and
we'll discus a common scam you may encounter.
The most common scam is a so called talent scout will
"discover" you and suggest that you make an appointment with the
agency they represent. The energized scout will say something
like,
"I'm with XYZ Agency and we just landed the project for
the new ____________ (fill in the blank). Do you do any
modeling? You have the exact look I'm desperate for."
The talent
scout will go on to say,
"You should come by the agency to meet
the director, I'm sure that he/she will agree that you are
perfect for this one."
So the unwitting and now deeply flattered hopeful calls the
agency and makes the appointment, shows up on time and sure
enough... she's perfect; exactly what they are looking for.
The director will then explain that the XYZ Agency has
contacts with a major agency in New York who only books with
them for local talent. In addition, the XYZ Agency works
with all the area producers, casting directors, and art directors,
as well as the film commission. They will tell the excited
and somewhat gullible wannabe who is beginning to believe that she's
a shoe-in for the gig. However, before they can send
her over to meet the "producers", she needs a portfolio and perhaps
a workshop to learn the language of the industry.
This may sound a
little unrealistic while reading. After all who could be that
foolish? But I'm here to tell you, some are very good at what
they are doing. And parents, don't think these are just
kids the scam artists convince. More of you have fallen to
their tactics than young eighteen year olds. Many parents are
blinded by emotion and a chance to live vicariously through
their children. Just be aware.
These people
are convincing because some of
what they say is true; sort of...
Now come back to earth for a moment and understand the
facts. First off, the XYZ Agency may have contacts with a major
New York agency but so do you. Every agency, large or small, is
on the look out for new talent. Virtually every agency has
contact procedures for considering new talent. I personally do not know
of any local agency with exclusive access to a major agency, it
just doesn't work that way.
Secondly, the XYZ Agency may work with all the area casting
directors and ad agencies or art directors but so does every
agency who books models and talents.
For example, agencies
with talent submitted in the Los Angeles, New York, Chicago,
Florida, Texas, Hawaii, Vancouver, and Toronto markets are
served by the
Breakdowns, a subscription service operated by
Breakdown Services LTD open to legitimate agencies.
Breakdowns are complete synopses of the characters contained
within scripts. Their staff writers read scripts provided by
casting directors and create approximately 30 television and
feature film Breakdowns every day. Breakdowns approved for
release are sent out real time through their website at
www.breakdownexpress.com. Talent Representatives are able to
instantly view the Breakdowns and submit their clients'
pictures, resume and videos via the Breakdown website to casting
directors.
Breakdowns that are released to talent representatives include
episodic, pilots, feature films, movies for television,
commercials, print projects, theater, student films,
industrials, reality TV, and many other types of projects that
require acting talent.
In markets producing projects not
covered by the Breakdown, casting directors and ad agencies for
print projects will make their needs known to the modeling and
talent agencies in their region.
The following is an edited
example of a talent request for a film project at Vanderbilt
University:
|
Dear Ric
Farrah,
Vanderbilt University Film Studies Program - Wilson
Hall 126
Park in
parking lot across from Ken's Sushi.
Casting
for the Introduction to Film class will be Sunday,
October 29th.
There
will be six projects cast on the 29th. A second
annoucement will go out about that casting session.
Filmmakers will be casting a wide range of
characters in a mix of ages, etc.
Do not
prepare a monologue, filmmakers will give you sides
to read. No
costume
requirements. No time slots to sign up for.
Contact
william.m.akers@vanderbilt.edu with any questions
about
auditions
on October 29th.
All
actors will get a DVD of the finished film.
Please
forward this Email to any interested actors!
If you
can't make the audition, snail mail headshot and
resume to:
William
M. Akers
Learning
Resource Center
Box 6074
Station B
Nashville, Tenn. 37235
Thank you for your interest in
the Vanderbilt Film Studies Program
|
Are you starting to
get my drift? So far, the XYZ Agency hasn't offered
anything to our new model which can't
be offered by most other agencies. XYZ isn't lying but they're not
being forthcoming either.
Why would XYZ go to all the trouble of meeting with someone
they just met on the street?
Let's follow the scenario further.
Our star-struck newbie is led to believe that XYZ has "landed"
the hottest project in town, (chances are everyone else has too). All she needs to do is meet
with the "producers", (actually, depending on the type
of project, casting directors, art
directors, or photographers are responsible for acquiring the models /
talents). Models
or talents submitted to this project will meet or audition
for those doing the casting.
Unfortunately, our shinning
example still thinks she has the job in hand and according to
XYZ, the only thing
holder her back is not yet having the necessary
materials to present to casting, a portfolio. She doesn't even have a decent headshot let
alone the experience to know the difference between an
"industrial" from a "pilot" or "print" project.
"Not a problem", explains
the XYZ. "We work with new talent all
the time and we have developed procedures to fast track your
career". He goes on to say, "All we need to do is schedule you
for our workshop which includes a photo shoot and get you added
to our online database".
"Then", he quips in a matter-of-fact tone, "casting directors
from all over the world will have access to your information.
After the workshop you will be in our system and will have the
knowledge you need for meeting the producers with portfolio in
hand. We provide everything you need and make starting process as convenient for
all our clients as
we possibly can".
Lets analyze this conversation, shall we? Is XYZ lying? Well
no... not really. A working model needs photography. And an
online database is available to anyone with Internet access
world wide. Even the workshop would be beneficial to
someone not knowing much about the industry. So what's the rub?
Lets listen further to see if this guy is really legit or if
any alarm bells should start ringing.
"Our next scheduled
workshop is in two weeks but we need to get this going because
you need to meet with the producers next Wednesday. If you are
available, our photographer will be in town this weekend to take
care of the shoot. In the mean time, here are the materials for
the workshop and I'll act as your personal coach to get you
through all of this and if we act fast enough we can have your
pictures back from the lab in time for your meeting". The
director continues, "I have to be honest with you"...
(the sirens should be
blaring by now). "...there is some cost involved here", says the XYZ director in
his most humble almost apologetic tone.
"As you know all models
need a portfolio, it's just the price of doing business. Now
here's your situation", he explains.
"This project, which, in my opinion, you are
perfect for, pays $1500.00. After the agency fee of 10% that
leaves you with $1350.00. The workshop materials and the photo
shoot is only $600.00, leaving you with a hefty $750.00 profit
and a brand new portfolio which won't need any updating for at
least six months. Probably by then money won't even be an issue
because, BABY YOU'RE A STAR".
You are probably thinking, nobody would fall for that
line. I must
tell you, these guys can be very convincing. It is just human
nature to believe almost anything when we want something bad
enough. These "agents" also know mostmpeople will come up with money for things
they want badly. Lets just follow this all the way through as
we watch our young model dole out the $600.00
She asks, "Wow, $600.00 is a lot of money, are you sure I'll
get this job"? "Like I said earlier", claims XYZ, "I really
think you are a shoe-in for this one and I've been doing this a
long time".
This is when he will usually start dropping names of
recognizable people inferring that they have worked together in
some capacity. XYZ continues,
"Now, as you probably already know, there
are never any guarantees in this crazy business. All we can do
is hedge our bets. A stunning knock out portfolio is the single
best way of gaining the advantage. If you are serious about
getting into this business, I'm offering you a chance to get the
materials and tools you need and have them paid for at the same
time".
Okay the new, slightly poorer, model swallows hard and
writes
the check. Everything is going along just as XYZ said it would.
She is handed the workshop materials, he is acting as her coach,
(I guess the director of XYZ doesn't have anything better to do).
On Saturday she meets
with the photographer for the shoot.
Everything is rushed because of the all important meeting on
Wednesday with the "producers". Tuesday afternoon she gets her
headshot back... Wait, this was supposed to be a portfolio but
they didn't have enough time to complete the processing and get
everything printed. She's told for this meeting
she can get by with just a headshot. Having no choice she accepts her
headshot shrugging it off to the wild and whacky business of
show business.
Tuesday night, not
being able to sleep, she pulls out the workshop materials for review. She now knows
the difference between an industrial and a pilot. She
understands what casting calls and open calls are, and what to
do at an audition. Lucky for her she has an actual meeting with
the producers and won't have to deal with all of the
fundamentals. She arrives at her appointment 10 minutes early
giving her enough time to primp a little before stepping into
her new career. Entering the building she notices some
people milling about, a lot of people milling about. She makes
her way to a small desk in the far corner of the outer room
occupied by some guy with spiked hair and nose ring acting as
the receptionist. She marches through the crowd with confidence
and announces her name to the nose ring dude, informing him of
her appointment with the producers. Nose Ring picks up his
clip board pushing it forward with all the authority of a salad
bar monitor and tells her to sign in. She
thumbs through page after page of names and finally gets to an
open space only to realize her meeting with the producers is an
open call, open to anyone wishing to participate.
I'm ashamed to say this practice continues across the country
in every major city. As far as XYZ is concerned, they held
up their end of the bargain when she arrived at the open call.
After all, our example received a portfolio shoot and a headshot
along with workshop materials for her money.
XYZ didn't
guarantee a booking. They didn't
guarantee anything. And that's not all, there are similar scams
targeting parents who want their children to work in the
industry. They can be just as convincing and frankly an easier
sell to the thousands of moms convinced that their kid should be
the next Gerber Baby.
Getting Started And Not Get Burned
- Do your home work.
- There is plenty of info for free on the Internet to
get you started. Use your favorite search engine
with the key words of talent agency or modeling agency.
- You will need the help of an agency to find work.
- Remember, you hire the agency! However, with that
said, you are hiring a partner in your career. Both you
and the agency are responsible for acquiring work. Be
prepared to do your part.
- Legitimate agencies do not charge models and talents
for representation. Agencies derive their income from a
percentage of the talent fee. This percentage can range
from 10-20 percent. Percentages can be complicated
and I'll provide more details at some point in a subsequent article.
- There are some reasonable and legitimate charges
that an agency may charge such as postage for mailing or
use of a messenger for marketing material.
Another reasonable charge is setting up a virtual
portfolio on their website. Be careful here, while there
are some legitimate costs in hosting a website and the
labor to digitize and set up your portfolio. In my
opinion anything
over a yearly payment of $50 or $60 is unreasonable.
There are some agencies who provide very little work for
their talent and make a very good living for themselves
by charging a monthly fee for hosting virtual
portfolios. Website hosting is typically billed by the
year. For instance, IPowerweb hosts this site. Their fee
is around $100.00 per year. In short, find out
before joining an agency any ancillary charges that may
come while working together. If they seem unreasonable
either walk or try to negotiate.
- While many legitimate agencies offer workshops and
seminars to their talent, be aware of agencies that
insist you take their training in order to be signed.
Also, avoid schools that try to pass themselves off as
agencies.
- Get references or evidence of the agency's prior
projects. Remember, you are trying to determine how much
work an agency can offer you. You will not want to waste
time with an agent who specializes in voice over talent
with little across the board work. Also, legit agencies
won't waste their time with you if can't benefit their
roster.
- What personnel does the agency have on staff? Can
they help you with image development or public
relations? Do they have a someone acting as a publicist?
- Who is on the agency roster? Are the other talents so famous the agency won't have time to
actively pitch you?
- Marketing
- It is your responsibility to provide marketing
materials in which your agent will use to pitch you on
jobs. There are three items most models will require:
- The Headshot - for models, usually an
8x10 photograph close up or 3/4 shot with typeset
contact info. For talents, usually an 8x10
photograph which can be a full body shot
demonstrating their talent with typeset contact
info. Headshots should include a resume stapled to
the back with two small staples, one in the center
top, the other the center bottom.
- The Comp Card or Zed Card - a marketing
piece that is press printed on both sides. Side one
will be similar to a headshot. Side two will contain
additional looks, contact info, and vital statistics
such as height, weight, inseam, sleeve size, shoe
size, age, etc. Comp cards can be designed in
two sizes. Full cards are 8.5 x 11, half cards are
8.5 x 5.5. Credits can also be included on comp
cards. Comp cards may also include white space
for a mailing label and stamp.
- The Portfolio is always a work in
progress for professional models. Entire books have
been written on this topic because of the importance of
this indispensable marketing tool. Your portfolio
will ultimately include the finished product of jobs
in which you were booked. These sheets, called tear
sheets are taken from an actual magazine, trade,
book, or some other publication where the ad or cover
shot appeared. In addition to tear sheets, you will
include actual photographs of different looks that
best display your abilities. Photographs with
product, fashion design, hair and makeup design,
athletic ability, and other skills are desirable.
Each shot should be well thought out and designed to
sell you as a model. Models just entering the
business will not have any tear sheets which makes
the photographs contained in the portfolio even more
important. You will need to team up with a good
photographer to plan your portfolio and determine
what looks will work best for the niche you plan to
enter. If you have the budget, have your
photographer bring on board a photo stylist. A photo
stylist is a professional on the cutting edge of pop
culture, contemporary colors, design and
composition who works with your photographer in
crafting the image, combining technical skills with
graphic arts and design. The portfolio is both art and science. I
highly recommend you invest some time reading some
of the books out there. In
subsequent articles on the
Model and Talent Services page, I explain how to
prepare for a portfolio shoot along with some
suggestions on choosing your photographer. For now,
just understand these marketing tools are a
necessary investment by anyone serious about gaining
work in this business. You will take your portfolio
also known as "your book" with extra headshots and
comp cards to every call or audition. Like anyone in
sales, you will always have these tools in close
proximity. You should have a supply of
headshots at the bare minimum when approaching
studios. Any agency you develop a relationship with
will require around 50. Always remember, an agent
may bring you on board, but will only be as serious
as you when arranging jobs. It's a two way street!
I want to finish up this article with a few
words on training. Like any other professional, models and
talents, from time to time, can benefit from additional
training. Before investing hard earned dollars in a bunch of
expensive workshops or seminars get your feet a little wet by
testing the water. Have a decent headshot made and print about
100. This will cost you around $200.00. You can have a
look at my pricing and services by clicking here.
Armed with your marketing, hook up with an agent
that will send you out. But first, backup for a moment and have
another look at the actual talent request for Vanderbilt
University, Note of the pay offered to the actors.
Click here to go now. When
finished click on the bottom line of the request to return.
Go ahead, I'll wait.
What was the money mentioned in the request?
There wasn't any, was there? The only mention of any
compensation was the DVD that the actors will receive for their
participation. This is known as a resume builder and really
something that you will work to avoid. However, they are a
great low risk avenue to gain some real time experience.
There are tons of these jobs, most are worth about as much as
they pay and you don't even need an agent to find them.
Craigslist.org
is a great resource for finding resume builders.
Simply navigate to your community and peruse the job listings
under these classifications: Art & Design, Marketing & PR,
and TV, Film & Video. Be careful though, there isn't a lot of
moderating on craigslist and some of these so called jobs can be
scams. The best approach is to have an agent to submit you if at
all possible.
In the beginning, your best
training will be the experience you gather while participating
in open casting calls or interviews by art directors. Yes there
are tricks to the trade like any another career and as you
progress your jobs will get better and your booking percentage
will increase.
Keep this in mind when it comes to modeling.
Your obvious asset is the look that you can achieve for any
particular project. Modeling hinges on that look. The best
models understand what the client is trying to create and then
works to deliver the client's vision. In addition, the most
sought after
models are professional and prepared on the job. They are not
temperamental or high maintenance. Contrary to what some may
believe, the world does not revolve around you or pro talent. True pros
understand while on the set, they are part of a team with other
talented professionals very skilled at what they do. Everyone's
skill vital is for the success of the project.
Before investing in expensive training
understand that you either have a grasp for this type of work or
you don't. You will know soon enough once you get out there and
begin the grind. You can get enough information on your own
through research and the contacts you make with legitimate
agencies to see you through the calls. At your level it truly is
about 30% ability and 70% attitude. If you have the look they
want, pleasant to be around with a positive and professional
attitude for delivering results, you will receive all the help
you need to survive.
Finally, remember this... in the arts, Work
Breeds Work! Gain the reputation for being competent and easy to
be around, work will find you.
This article has only touched on a few main
points. Hopefully it has given you enough knowledge and
motivation to continue chasing your dream. If you found
the information useful I would love to hear from you and get an
update on your progress.
Click here to send a quick note. When you are ready, I
would love to discuss your photography. My consultations
are always free without any obligation whatsoever. Best of all,
if you are not satisfied with any of my work, I'll give back all
of your money.
Good bye for now and good luck. I wish you much
success.
Credits: Ric Farrah is a
freelance photographer working in the Nashville, TN area. His
client list includes corporations and small business, pro talent in the music
industry, models, actors, and families. Before
turning pro as a photographer, Ric owned and operated a talent
agency for nearly 10 years in Southern California. Ric relocated
to Nashville after selling his agency in 1991.